Easy Shape Contour Gauge Duplicator
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DESCRIPTION
Contour Gauge Profile Tool
Press it against an edge and the pins slide to copy the shape. Tighten one screw and the profile stays put while you carry it to the saw. In 12 cm and 25 cm, three colours.
Why not just hold a piece of card against it
The card trick works until you need to cut something that actually fits.
Card, paper and a pencil
Paper buckles against a corner and the line you draw is the paper's edge, not the wall's
A curve drawn by hand is a few millimetres out, which is the gap you see once it is fitted
You need a second pair of hands to hold the card while you mark it
The template is floppy by the time you get it to the saw
This gauge
The pins sit flat against the surface, so what you copy is the surface itself
Each pin holds its own position, so a curve comes out as a series of exact points
One hand presses, one hand tightens, and the shape is locked
It is rigid when you carry it, so the profile arrives intact

Six things worth knowing
The details that decide whether a profile gauge is useful or a drawer ornament.
🔒
It locks, it does not just hold
A single screw at the end of the bar clamps every pin at once. Without that, the shape falls apart the moment you lift it off the wall.
📏
Numbers on the bar
A scale printed along the black bar, so you can read a width or a step straight off the tool instead of reaching for a tape.
🦷
Fine, closely set pins
The pins are thin and packed tight, which is what lets them follow moulding and trim rather than smoothing it into a vague curve.
📐
45 mm of travel
Each pin slides 45 mm, so the gauge handles skirting, architrave and pipe boxing. It will not take the full depth of a deep cornice.
✋
One person can do it
Press with one hand, tighten with the other. No helper holding a template while you try to mark a line.
🎨
Three colours, two sizes
Red, blue and green. The colour is so you can tell two gauges apart on a bench, nothing more. It does not change how the tool works.
12 cm or 25 cm
Not about how big the object is. About how much of the profile you need in one go.
12 cm
5 in · 172 g
Skirting against a wall
Architrave and window trim
Pipe boxing and column corners
Small moulding and carving
25 cm
10 in · 320 g
A whole wall corner in one press
Wide arcs and curved walls
Tiling around a stone face
Flooring against an irregular edge
Both have 45 mm pins
Same depth of travel, same height, same scale. The only difference is how much width you can copy in one press.
Not sure?
The 25 cm does everything the 12 cm does, it is just longer to hold against a narrow trim. If you are fitting a whole room, take the 25.
HOW TO GET A PROFILE YOU CAN ACTUALLY CUT TO
Four steps
Undo the screw first
Every pin has to move freely. If the gauge is still clamped from last time, the pins cannot follow the surface and you will copy a shape that is partly the old one.
Press it flat and square
The back of the bar has to sit flat against the surface, and the pins need to meet the edge at a right angle. Tilt it and every pin records a slightly wrong depth.
Tighten before you lift
Clamp the screw while the tool is still against the wall. Lifting first and then tightening is the single most common way people lose a profile.
Trace, then cut inside the line
Run a pencil along the pin tips, then cut just inside the line rather than on it. The pencil has width, and a board cut on the line comes out a fraction small.


Six jobs it was made for
Anywhere a straight edge meets something that is not straight.
🧱
Tiling
Cutting a tile around a pipe, a column or an uneven corner. Copy the shape, transfer it to the tile, cut once instead of three times.
🪵
Skirting and architrave
Old walls are never plumb. Copy the gap at the corner and cut the trim to it, rather than filling a 6 mm gap with caulk.
🪜
Flooring
The last board against a stone wall, a fireplace surround or a curved threshold. This is the cut that gets ruined most often.
🚪
Door and window trim
Moulding profiles, especially on older frames where the carving is not quite symmetrical on both sides.
🚗
Wrapping and vinyl
Copying a panel edge or a body line so a wrap template lines up. Also used for cutting shelf paper and laminate around awkward shapes.
🔧
Making templates
Copy once, then use the locked gauge as a physical template to transfer the same profile onto several pieces of material.
Measurements
Both models are the same height with the same pin length. Only the width changes.
Specifications


Questions people ask
Should I get the 12 cm or the 25 cm?
It depends on how wide a profile you need to copy in one press, not on how large the object is. Trim, skirting and small moulding fit within 12 cm. A wall corner, a wide arc or an irregular stone edge needs the 25 cm, because you cannot copy half a profile and join it up accurately. If you are doing a whole room rather than one joint, the 25 cm is the safer buy.
How deep a shape can it copy?
45 mm of pin travel, which covers most household trim and pipe boxing. A deep cornice or a heavily recessed panel will exceed that, and the pins will bottom out before they reach the back of the profile. If you can see that the shape is deeper than the pins are long, this tool will only give you the front of it.
Do the pins get loose over time?
They stay firm as long as grit and plaster dust are kept out of the channels. The screw clamps the whole row, so even slightly worn pins still hold. If a pin does start to bind, working it back and forth a few times usually frees it; the usual cause is dried filler rather than wear.
Can I draw on the gauge itself?
You can mark the bar with a pencil if you need to, and it wipes off. Most people do not: the point of the tool is to carry the locked profile to the material and trace along the pin tips there, which avoids a second transfer step and the error that comes with it.
Does the colour mean anything?
No. Red, blue and green are identical in size, pin count and function. The only practical use is telling two gauges apart on a bench, or finding a bright one in a toolbox. Pick whichever you like the look of.
What buyers say
★★★★★
Used it to cut skirting around an old fireplace and got it right first time. I have ruined three lengths of trim doing this by eye.
Stephen W. · Verified Buyer
★★★★★
Bought the 25 cm for tiling around a stone wall and it was the right call. The smaller one would not have spanned the stones in one go.
Nadia K. · Verified Buyer
★★★★★
The lock is the thing. I had a cheap one with no screw and it was useless, the pins moved the second you picked it up.
Robert C. · Verified Buyer
★★★★★
Bought one in each size. The small one lives in the toolbox and the big one stays in the workshop, and the colours mean I can tell which is which at a glance.
Helen M. · Verified Buyer
Copy the shape once, cut it once
12 cm for trim, 25 cm for anything wider than a hand.
Back to the topDimensions are measured by hand and may vary slightly between pieces. The pins copy an outline only and cannot record depth. Keep grit, plaster and filler out of the pin channels; a pin that binds is usually blocked rather than worn. Do not force a pin past its travel limit. Colours are for identification and do not indicate different grades or sizes.

